Knitting With Anne
I use this space to occasionally write up about my knitting projects. Please join me if you are a knitter and we can 'grow' together in the challenges of 'getting it right' on the needles.
Tuesday, April 4, 2023
Crafting For A Living
I am now in full-scale mode to craft as my way to earn a living. There are two angles to my business plan. The first is to make Christmas ornaments via knitting, crocheting, beading, smocking, cross-stitching and any other craft I manage to learn. The ornaments will be put into my Etsy shop in time for Christmas shopping. The second is to design patterns. For now I am mainly focussed on the first.
Thursday, October 13, 2022
St. Mary's Patio Stones Afghan
It's official! I have just released my first paid pattern on Ravelry! It is a crocheted piece-work afghan. It is under the MerryMakingDesign name. My business is called Merry Making. You can find me on Etsy at MerryMakingCrafts.
The pattern is entitled "St. Mary's Patio Stones Afghan". It was inspired by the patio stones at St. Mary's Church in Russell, Ontario. I was sitting on the steps one day and suddenly I "saw" a blanket.
Do you see what I mean?
I immediately set to work on forming the "stones" for this blanket and working out how to arrange them and sew them together. Once my pattern was in draft form, I began to crochet the afghan. When the blanket was completed, I began to search for testers.
I managed to persuade a single tester to assist me in finalizing the pattern. Her name is Linda Biggs and she was fantastic. She helped me perfect the rounded corners. And take a look at how her blanket came out!!
Isn't it beautiful!!
So, there is a promotion on the blanket until October 15th. If you are a Raveler, please check out St. Mary's Patio Stones Afghan. Thank you for reading my blog!
Tuesday, October 17, 2017
My "Arlene" Crochet Block
My "Arlene" Crochet Block
This design is one that I came up with as I was crocheting the Vibrant Vintage CAL designed by Rachele Carmona. The pattern is available on Ravelry and there is a group devoted to the project. As Rachele Carmona named each of her designed squares after friends, I did the same with this one.
Arlene
By:
Anne Goodwin
SC
– Single Crochet
HDC
– Half Double Crochet
DC
– Double Crochet
Special Stitches:
Beg
DC: = (SC + SC through back of second loop of just-made SC)
Beg
TC: = (SC + SC through back of second loop of just-made SC + another
SC through back of second loop of second SC
Beg 2 DC Cluster - Beg DC and DC in same stitch.
Beg 2 DC Cluster - Beg DC and DC in same stitch.
Beg 2TC Cluster – Beg TC and TC in same stitch.
Note: Beg DC and Beg
TC does not count as stitch.
When joining, join with slip
stitch in TC, skipping over Beg TC.
2TC
Cluster – (YO twice, insert hook in magic circle, YO, pull through
2 loops, YO, pull through 2 loops; then repeat all of that and draw
through all 3 loops on hook.
2DC
Cluster – (YO, insert hook in stitch, YO, pull up loop, YO, drawn
yarn through 2 loops on hook)
twice, YO and draw yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
Popcorn
– 4 DC in indicated spot, release loop from hook in first DC, pull
loop to front, closing popcorn.
Foundation:
Ch-5 and join in first Ch to make ring OR, use magic loop.
Round
1: All
in ring, Beg 2TC Cluster, ch 2; **( 2 2TC Clusters, ch 2) 3 times, 1
2TC Cluster, join at top of first 2TC Cluster with slip stitch.
_8_2TC
Clusters, 4 ch-2 space total_ [8 stitches + 4 spaces]
Round
2: Slip
stitch into first stitch and into chain 2 space, chain 6, DC into
next stitch, ch 1, DC, ch 1; **slip stitch into next ch 2 space,
chain 6, DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1** 3 times, join by slip stitching into
the first 3 loops of the chain 6 loop. _4_ch-6
spaces, 8 DC, 8 ch-1 spaces_ [8] [2 stitches + 3 spaces per side]
Round
3: Beg
2DC Cluster, chain 2, 3 2DC Clusters all into Chain 6 space (start of
first corner); **SC into 1st
DC stitch, chain 2, 4 DC in chain 1 space, chain 2, SC in DC stitch,
slip stitch into the next chain 1 space, make corner (3 2DC Cluster,
chain 2, 3 2DC Cluster)** 3 times, 2 2DC Clusters to complete first
corner, join with a slip stitch to top of Beg 2DC Cluster. _24
2DC Clusters, 16 DC, 8 SC, 8 ch-2 spaces, 4 ch-1 space_ [48] [12
stitches + 3 spaces per side]
Round
4: Slip
stitch into the next DC stitch (first stitch before corner space).
Then, into the chain 2 (corner) space, Beg DC, chain 2, 3 DC into
chain 1 space (start of first corner); **3 HDC in next 3 stitches, SC
into SC stitch, slip stitch into chain 2 space, chain 6, skip the
next 4 DC, SC into the chain 2 space, SC into the next SC stitch, 3
HDC in next 3 stitches, make corner (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC)** three
times, 2 DC to complete first corner, join with a slip stitch to top
of Beg DC. _24
DC, 28 HDC, 12 SC, 4 ch-6 spaces_ [64] [16 stitches + 1 space per
side]
Round
5: Popcorn,
chain 1, Popcorn (corner made); **3 SC in next 3 sts, 3 DC in next 3
sts, slip stitch into next stitch, 6 SC in chain 6 loop, slip stitch
into next stitch, 3 DC in following 3 sts, HDC in next st, 3 SC in
next 3 sts, make corner (Popcorn, chain 1, Popcorn)** three times,
join with a slip stitch to first chain (corner). _24
DC, 4 HDC, 24 SC, 8 Popcorn, 4 ch-1 spaces _ [80] [20 stitches + 1
space per side]
Round
6: 3
SC in chain 1 space (but NOT in tops of popcorns); then, ignoring any
slip stitch spaces (after stitches #9 and #15 on each side), SC in
all stitches around, placing 3 SC in corners. After final SC, join
with a slip stitch in the first SC. Cut yarn and finish off ends. _88
SC total _ [88] [22 stitches per side)]
Note:
Avoid
picking up the first DC stitch that is INSIDE (and to the left) of
the corner loops when doing Round 5.
Suggestion:
When
using this square for making a blanket, it is recommended that it
gets trimmed with a double crochet round, probably in a different
color, and putting either 5 DC in each corner, or, 2 DC, chain 1, 2
DC in each corner.
Final
Note: This
square has not been test-crocheted except by the designer. The
designer welcomes anyone who wishes to test-crochet it and to provide
feedback. To do this, email at: ea_goodwin@hotmail.com.
The square shown in the photo was crocheted with Knit Picks Mighty
Stitch yarn (worsted weight) and using a 5.5 mm crochet hook.
However, the square can be crocheted with any yarn and appropriate
crochet hook to yarn being used.
Tuesday, July 18, 2017
Personal Pattern / Other Pattern
It has been a long time since I have posted. It is not that I have been absent from knitting. In fact, it is the opposite. I have been SO busy knitting (and crocheting) that I really have not had time to blog, other than my page reports on Ravelry.
However, I have two pieces of news today. The first is that my pattern "Raifwear Chapter Eight Cowl" placed second in the Ottawa Knitting Guild's Knitting Challenge for 2017. This pattern is NOT and will not ever be available to the public. It is solely for myself. However, what I can share with you is a photo of the project.
So, there it is, a photo of me wearing the cowl I designed. For those who do not know, Raif Badawi is a prisoner of conscience in Saudi Arabia. He wrote blogs and was imprisoned in Saudi Arabia for doing that. I am one of his supporters. #FreeRaif
My second piece of news is that I have available to those who are on Ravelry a written copy of Ursula Graf's Double Density Oven Mittens. Ursula Graf produced a YouTube video illustrating how to make her oven mittens; however, apparently a written pattern has not been available. I decided to rectify that and so, ONLY to those of you who are on Ravelry, you can obtain a copy of the pattern if you send me your email address. If you need me to give you my Ravelry name, then leave a note below and I will try to contact you somehow ... again, ONLY if you are on Ravelry.
Below is a photo of one set of Double Density Oven Mittens from the YouTube video of Ursula Graf's that I made.
Thanks for reading my blog. If there is anything you would like me to cover as a topic, please say so in the comments below. Have a great day!
Friday, March 29, 2013
Tic-Tac-Toe Aran Square
Tic-Tac-Toe
Aran Square
(to
be used either alone or in combination
with
other squares to make a Toddler's Play Mat)
Designed
by: Anne Goodwin
(copyright
March 29, 2013)
Tic-Tac-Toe Aran Square For
Toddler's Playmat
Designed
by: Anne Goodwin (copyright March 29, 2013)
Materials:
- one ball of Mary Maxim Aran Irish Twist (205 yards/187 metres) OR any sturdy worsted weight acrylic yarn
- 3.00 mm/US size 2 knitting needles, flat or circular are both fine
- 2.5 mm/US size 1 knitting needles, shorter flat ones would be easiest to use
- cable needle
- stitch markers
- “D” crochet hook (to pick up and fix dropped stitches)(recommended)
- large flat-tipped sewing/darning needle (to sew in yarn ends)
Ideally
the square should be 12” x 12” inches. Please make adjustments
to size of knitting needles that you use to obtain required gauge.
(Simply knit a few rows of about 20 stitches to see how many stitches
you get per inch.) If you would like your square to be larger, then
use larger knitting needles. The pattern will work to any size
knitting needle. In fact, if you would like this single square
itself to be a playmat all by itself, then you would simply use very
large knitting needles.
Terminology:
K
– Knit
P
– Purl
PM
– Place marker
SM
– Slip marker
1/1
RC (One by One Right Cross) – Slip one to cable needle, K1; K1 from
cable needle
1/1
RPC (One by One Right Purl Cross) – Slip one to cable needle,hold
to back, K1; P1 from cable needle
1/1
LPC (One by One Left Purl Cross) – Slip one to cable needle , hold
in front, P1; K1 from cable needle
K1tbl
– Knit one through back loop
Instructions
For Making Large Square (the main piece)
On
all wrong side rows, simply knit the knitted stitches and purl the
purled stitches. The instructions for the rows make the design for
the FRONT or the RIGHT SIDE of the piece. Therefore, when you are
finished knitting the square, you will actually have knitted TWICE
the number of rows as what are numerically listed below.
Using
larger needles, cast on 84 stitches, using the cast-on method of your
choice.
Knit
6 rows (3 ridges) of garter stitch. Now work the rows as follows,
remembering to keep the 4 outside stitches at EACH edge as GARTER
STITCH. I recommend you use markers in order to easily remember
this. Now work the rows as follows:
- [K1,P2, K1, P1, K2, P1] eight times, K1, P2, K1.
- [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 RPC, 1/1LPC] eight times, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- [P1, 1/1 RC, P1, K1, P2, K1] eight times, P1, 1/1 RC, P1.
- [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] eight times, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- P1, K2, P1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, P1, K2, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, PM, K 20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, PM, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.*
- K1, P2, K1, SM, K 20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, SM, K1, P2, K1.**
- 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, K 20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K 20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- K1, P2, K1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, K1, P2, K1.
- 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- P1, 1/1 RC, P1, K 20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, P1, 1/1 RC, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, K 20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- P1, K2, P1, K 20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, P1, K2, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- K1, P2, K1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, K1, P2, K1.
- 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- K1, P2, K1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, K1, P2, K1.
- 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K13, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- P1, 1/1 RC, P1, K6, K1tbl 48 times, K6, P1, 1/1 RC, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, K6, K1tbl 48 times, K6, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- P1, K2, P1, K6, K1tbl 48 times, K6, P1, K2, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- K1, P2, K1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, K1, P2, K1.
- 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- K1, P2, K1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, K1, P2, K1.
- 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- P1, 1/1 RC, P1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, P1, 1/1 RC, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
You
are, at this point, half-way through completing the square! Keep
going!
- P1, K2, P1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, P1, K2, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- K1, P2, K1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, K1, P2, K1.
- 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- K1, P2, K1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, K1, P2, K1.
- 1/1LPC, 1/1 RPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- P1, 1/1 RC, P1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, P1, 1/1 RC, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, K6, K1tbl 48 times, K6, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- P1, K2, P1, K6, K1tbl 48 times, K6, P1, K2, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, K6, K1tbl 48 times, K6, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- K1, P2, K1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, K1, P2, K1.
- 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- K1, P2, K1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, K1, P2, K1.
- 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- P1, 1/1 RC, P1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, P1, 1/1 RC, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- P1, K2, P1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, P1, K2, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- K1, P2, K1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, K1, P2, K1.
- 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- K1, P2, K1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, K1, P2, K1.
- 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
- P1, 1/1 RC, P1, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, P1, 1/1 RC, P1.
- 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, K20, K1tbl 3 times, K14, K1tbl 3 times, K20, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- [P1, K2, P1, K1, P2, K1] 8 times, P1 K2, P1.
- [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] eight times, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC.
- [K1, P2, K1, P1, 1/1 RC, P1] eight times, K1, P2, K1.
- [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] eight times, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC.
Knit
6 rows (3 ridges) of garter stitch. Cast off comfortably, not too
loose but not tightly.
*
and ** setting up markers and explaining how to use them;
instructions from here on in will not mention the markers; however,
you should continue to use markers to separate the garter stitch
border, the decorative border and the main piece.
Instructions
for Making the 'X' and the 'O' Pieces (small squares to play the
game)
I
recommend that you knit the 'X' pieces in one color and the 'O'
pieces in another color. This will be easier for a toddler to work
with; also we are using flat pieces instead of smaller felted
cut-outs of x's and o's because it is both easier to play with and
SAFER!
To
Make the 'X' piece:
Using
smaller needles, cast on 16 stitches. Knit 3 rows garter stitch (1.5
ridges). Just as for the main piece, all wrong side rows, you must
knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches. So, keeping 2
stitches at EACH edge apart (marked with a marker) for a garter
stitch border, do the following:
- P2, K1, P6, K1, P1. (This and the following rows do not include instructions for the garter stitch border.)
- P3, K1, P4, K1, P3.
- P4, K1, P2, K1, P4.
- P5, K2, P5.
- P5, 1/1 RC, P5.
- P4, K1, P2, K1, P4.
- P3, K1, P4, K1, P3.
- P2, K1, P6, K1, P2.
Knit
3 rows (1.5 ridges) of garter stitch. Cast off comfortably.
To
Make the 'O' piece:
Using
smaller needles, cast on 16 stitches. Knit 3 rows garter stitch (1.5
ridges). Just as for the main piece, all wrong side rows, you must
knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches. So, keeping 2
stitches at EACH edge apart (marked with a marker) for a garter
stitch border, do the following:
- P5, K2, P5. (Again, this and following rows do not include instructions for garter stitch border.)
- P4, K1, P2, K1, P4.
- P3, K1, P4, K1, P3.
- P2, K1, P6, K1, P2.
- P2, K1, P6, K1, P2.
- P3, K1, P4, K1, P3.
- P4, K1, P2, K1, P4.
- P5, K2, P5.
Knit
3 rows (1.5 ridges) garter stitch. Cast off comfortably. Weave in
all loose ends.
Make
at least 5 of each of the 'X' and 'O' pieces.
Enjoy
playing the game with your youngster!
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Wild Rose Textured Dishcloth
As of April 28, 2013 this pattern has had some errors fixed up. Hopefully all is now perfect!
Wild Rose Textured Dishcloth
Wild Rose Textured Dishcloth
The wild rose is the provincial flower of the province of Alberta (Canada) and that is where I grew up. This dishcloth pattern is dedicated to my mother, Marcella Schwenk, for showing me both how to 'smell the roses' and to 'do the dishes' when I lived out in Alberta. Thanks Mom!
Yarn:
Lily Sugar 'n Cream Cotton
Needles:
Small, use size 4 mm for 9-inch square; Medium, use size 4.5 mm for
10-inch square; Large, use size 5 mm for 11-inch square
Cast
on 45 stitches.
Rows
1 to 7: Knit across.
Row
8: K4, P37, K4.
Row
9: K23, P4, K18.
Row
10: K4, P14, K1, P3, K1, P18, K4.
Row
11: K13, P3, K5, P1, K5, P1, K17.
Row
12: K4, P13, K1, P5, K1, P3, K2, P2, K1, P9, K4.
Row
13: K12, P1, K5, P3, K7, P1, K16.
Row
14: K4, P11, K1, P8, K1, P7, K1, P8, K4.
Row
15: K12, P1, K6, P1, K9, P1, K15.
Row
16: K4, P10, K1, P10, K1, P7, K1, P7, K4.
Row
17: K11, P1, K6, P1, K12, P1, K13.
Row
18: K4, P8, K1, P13, K1, P6, K1, P7, K4.
Row
19: K10, P1, K7, P1, K14, P1, K11.
Row
20: K4, P6, K1, P16, K1, P6, K1, P6, K4.
Row
21: K9, P1, K7, P1, K16, P1, K10.
Row
22: K4, P5, K1, P1, K3, P13, K1, P7, K1, P5, K4.
Row
23: K8, P1, K8, P1, K10, P2, K5, P2, K8.
Row
24: K4, P4, K1, P8, K1, P9, K1, P9, K1, P3, K4.
Row
25: K7, P1, K10, P2, K6, P1, K8, P1, K9.
Row
26: K4, P5, K1, P9, K1, P3, K2, [P1, K1] twice, P8, K1, P3, K4.
Row
27: K6, P1, K8, P1, K1, P1, K4, P3, K10, P1, K9.
Row
28: K4, P5, K1, P10, K1, P9, K1, P7, K1, P2, K4.
Row
29: K6, P1, K7, P1, K9, P1, K11, P1, K8.
Row
30: K4, P4, K1, P11, K1, P10, K1, P6, K1, P2, K4.
Row
31: K6, P1, K6, P1, K11, P1, K10, P1, K8.
Row
32: K4, P3, K1, P11, K1, P11, K1, P6, K1, P2, K4.
Row
33: K6, P1, K6, [P1, K11] twice, P1, K7.
Row
34: K4, P2, K1, P12, K1, P10, K1, P6, K1, P3, K4.
Row
35: K7, P1, K5, P2, K9, P1, K13, P1, K6.
Row
36: K4, P2, K1, P11, K3, P9, K1, P1, K2, P2, K1, P4, K4.
Row
37: K8, P3, K4, P1, K8, P1, K2, P2, K9, P1, K6.
Row
38: K4, P2, K1, P8, K1, P5, [K1, P6] twice, K1, P5, K4.
Row
39: K8, P1, K7, P1, K5, P1, [K7, P1] twice, K6.
Row
40: K4, P3, K1, P5, K1, P9, K1, P3, K1, P8, K1, P4, K4.
Row
41: K8, P1, K9, P3, K11, P1, K4, P1, K7.
Row
42: K4, P4, K1, P2, K1, P13, K1, P11, K1, P3, K4.
Row
43: K7, P1, K10, P1, K14, P1, K1, P1, K9.
Row
44: K4, P6, K2, P14, K1, P11, K1, P2, K4.
Row
45: K6, P1, K11, P1, K14, P1, K11.
Row
46: K4, P8, K1, P13, K1, P10, K1, P3, K4.
Row
47: K7, P1, K10, P1, K13, P1, K12.
Row
48: K4, P7, K1, P14, K1, P10, K1, P3, K4.
Row
49: K7, P1, K11, P1, K13, P1, K11.
Row
50: K4, P7, K1, P13, K1, P11, K1, P3, K4.
Row
51: K7, P1, K11, P1, K12, P1, K12.
Row
52: K4, P8, K1, P12, K1, P11, K1, P3, K4.
Row
53: K8, P1, K10, P2, K10, P1, K13.
Row
54: K4, P10, K1, P8, K1, P2, K1, P6, K4, P4, K4.
Row
55: K12, P2, [K3, P1] twice, K7, P1, K15.
Row
56: K4, P12, [K1, P5] twice, K3, P10, K4.
Row
57: K23, P1, K3, P1, K17.
Row
58: K4, P14, K3, P20, K4.
Row
59: Knit across.
Row
60: K4, P37, K4.
Rows
61 to 66: Knit across.
Cast
Off.
This
pattern can be used to make dishcloths for craft sales meant for
charity. Please do not resell the pattern or use it for personal
profit. It is copyrighted to me (Anne Goodwin), January 15, 2012.
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Assembling Sweater Pieces
This is a hooded baby sweater where the hood is already attached. What is left are two sleeves, right front, left front and back to attach together in addition to hemming the bottom of the sweater and the bottoms of the sleeves. The first step in assembling the sweater is to BLOCK all the pieces. We do this by pinning the pieces and wetting them with a bit of water.
In this photo, I have taken the sweater outside in the sunshine and sprayed the pieces. It only takes about five minutes to dry in bright sunshine.
This photo shows where I am sewing an INVISIBLE SEAM. In order to do an invisible seam, you pick up the BAR between stitches on EACH side of the seam and then sew together.
This photo shows what NOT to do when making an invisible seam. You must pick up the BAR, not the side of the knitted stitch.
Here the sides of the sweater and also the side of one of the sleeves are completed, using invisible seaming.
This photo show the seaming is done all the way. The raglan sleeves were inserted and then sewn from the INSIDE.
Here is a photo that shows the HEMMING being done up.
Once the sweater is assembled, it needs to be blocked once again.
This is the finished sweater.
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